Pool Water FAQs

Frog Pool Products

For pools, add a stabilizer or conditioner if the level is below 20 ppm. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. Algaecides are also helpful (See FROG BAM®).

For spas, clarifiers can be helpful for occasional cloudy water.

Ionizers due to the duplication of minerals and biguinides like Baquacil that are not compatible with chlorine or bromine.

Total chlorine is the total amount of chlorine in the water. When chlorine binds up with contaminants it forms a compound called “chloramines” that are still part of the total but no longer effective. The chlorine that is still active to remove contaminants is known as free. When the chloramine level is higher than the free chlorine level (subtract free number from total), then you need to shock the water.

Silver and limestone. The silver destroys bacteria and the limestone absorbs acids from chemicals like chlorine to help maintain a neutral pH.

Minerals have been used for centuries. The Romans put silver coins in urns to help maintain water clarity longer. In more recent times, minerals are used every day in the medical industry with tremendous results. Some of these same minerals, like silver, are found in the FROG products.

For pools, FROG minerals last six months or one pool season whichever is shorter. Once removed from the water, the minerals may not be reused the following season. For spas, FROG minerals last 4 months. Simply replace every four months or whenever you drain and fill your spa.

No, until the minerals are wetted, they will not expire; store in a dry location.

The minerals enter the water as it passes through the mineral medium. A low parts per billion level is dispensed through a controlled release system that prevents overdosing.

Yes, for pools, chlorine use can be reduced to 0.5 to 1.0 ppm and for spas both chlorine or bromine use can be reduced to 1.0 to 2.0 ppm. That is typically up to 50%* less than standard pool and spa water care.

  • *Compared to the minimum EPA recommended chlorine level of 1.0 ppm for a stabilized swimming pool and the minimum ANSI recommendation of 2.0 ppm for a spa.

The limited two year warranty can be extended to ten years if the warranty card is received within 60 days of installation. Click here to register your product online. For full warranty details, see instruction manual.

FROG minerals reduce chlorine use, so with a salt generator you can turn the dial down to generate less, thus lengthening the life of the salt cell. Ozone is an excellent oxidizer so using it with FROG could eliminate shocking.

There are several test methods available through your local pool and spa dealer. These include drop tests or strips. Either method is fine as long as it measures the following four parameters; pH, total alkalinity, total chlorine and free chlorine or bromine. Most test kits will state that 0.5 ppm chlorine or 1.0 ppm bromine is too low but it is the ideal range when used with FROG minerals. (See FROG Test Strips) Bring a water sample to your dealer occasionally to ensure water balance.

For Spas: For Pools:
pH: 7.2 – 7.8 7.2 – 7.8
Total Alkalinity: 80 – 180 ppm 60 – 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 150 – 400 ppm 150 – 400 ppm
Stabilizer: N/A 20 – 80 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids: < 1500 ppm < 1500 ppm
Free Chlorine w/ Minerals: 1 – 2 ppm 0.5 – 1 ppm
Free Chlorine Alone: 2 – 4 ppm 2 – 4 ppm
Bromine w/ Minerals: 1 – 2 ppm N/A
Bromine Alone: 2 – 4 ppm N/A

pH is the abbreviation for “potential hydrogen” and the reading indicates the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water. Basically, it is the measure of how acidic or basic (alkaline) the water is. Total alkalinity is the measure of how stable the pH is. It measures the water’s buffering capacity to resist pH changes. Without control of the total alkalinity, the pH will rise and fall abruptly.

Calcium Hardness (or Total Hardness) refers to the amount of calcium and other minerals that make the water hard. Swimming pools require a hardness level of 150 to 400 ppm. Less than 150 and the water will be corrosive, more than 400 and the water will be scale forming.

Water supplies contain different levels of natural minerals like iron, copper or magnesium. These minerals must be removed from the water with a Metal Out or Sequestering Agent (see your dealer) to ensure easier balancing and proper sanitation. If using our FROG Mineral products, make sure you remove the natural water minerals at start up only and wait 24 hours to clean the filter before using the FROG minerals.

There are several test methods available through your local pool dealer. These include drop tests or strips. Either method is fine as long as it measures the following four parameters: pH, total alkalinity, total chlorine (or bromine) and free chlorine (or bromine).

Weather affects the chlorine level in the pool as well as the pH. Hot weather will increase the water temperature, which causes the chlorine to be consumed more quickly. Cool weather will result in no chlorine demand. Rain is often acidic which can drive your pH down. Always check the water balance after it rains.

Yes. Landscaping chemicals often contain nitrates that consume chlorine and make it difficult to maintain the proper sanitation levels. Try to cover the pool when using fertilizers and keep trees or shrubs that lose their leaves as far from the pool as possible.

Industry standards for chlorine in pools is 1.0 to 3.0 ppm. For spas, bromine should be 2.0 to 4.0 ppm and chlorine 3.0 to 5.0 ppm. When using FROG minerals, chlorine use is reduced to 0.5 ppm for pools and chlorine or bromine can be reduced to 1.0 ppm in spas.

Strong, smelly chlorine odor means you have chloramines, organic by products of chlorine oxidizing sweat, urine and other contaminants. Ridding the spa or pool of chloramines demands a shock treatment. (Either chlorine or non-chlorine shock.)

Everything that enters your spa has a pH that can raise or lower your pool or spa’s total pH. Check the following:

  • Tap water, depending on the area of the country, can either have a low or high pH.
  • Overestimating the amount of pH Decreaser or pH Increaser needed is often the problem.
  • Using Bromine or Trichlor tends to lower pH over time while using shocks like Calcium Hypochlorite or Lithium Hypochlorite may raise the pH over time.
  • High bather loads will tend to lower pH.
  • Swimmer wastes, such as perspiration, urine, saliva and other body oils will lower pH.
  • A high alkalinity reading will raise the pH.
  • Dirt, debris or leaves that blow into the pool as well as rain that is often acidic will lower pH.
  • Salt chlorine generators will raise the pH over time.

Test kits are susceptible to bleaching in high concentrations of chlorine such as after shocking. Wait 24 hours after shocking and test again. Check the test strip expiration date and only use fresh strips.

  • Your sanitizer level could be low.
  • The pH could be high.
  • Your filter might be dirty.
  • You may need to increase your circulation time.

Insufficient sanitizer levels are the main cause but improper water balance and poor circulation can attribute to algae as well.

Colored water results either from algae blooming or the oxidation of metals in the water. Algae comes in a variety of colors (green, yellow, black or pink) and can be found on the surface of the water or the pool itself. Brown or reddish stains are most likely from metal stains like iron, copper or magnesium. This can happen if the pH is off or if high metallic water is super chlorinated.

For in ground models, use the cap tool to loosen cap by hitting the handle with your open hand or a hammer. Sometimes two cap tools will provide greater leverage. Lubricate cap o-ring with silicone lubricant regularly. Do not use petroleum based lubricants!

The pump: Ideal gallons per minute is 20-60 gpm. Pools over 80 gpm should use a special installation. The filter: If it is clogged, circulation through the sanitizer product will be poor. Return fittings: If back pressure is not within 4-8 psi, over or under chlorination will occur. Change the return jet eyeball size to correct this. An in-floor cleaner: These cause pressure spikes in the plumbing that could result in cap cracks or over-chlorination. Special installations are required for this.

All pool units require a screwdriver and pipe wrench along with teflon tape or pipe thread sealant and/or cement and primer. In-line installations will also need a hacksaw and tape measure, and off-line installations need a drill with 5/8″ or 19/32″ bit.

A check valve is recommended to prevent chlorinated water from backing up into the heater when the pump is off. Above ground units will also need a hose adapter, one section of 1 1/2″ flex hose and teflon tape while in ground units will need PVC primer and cement as well as pipe thread sealant.

No. The off-line unit has a diverter built in that will create too much restriction if installed in-line.

Yes, up to 25,000 gallons. See the installation options in the above ground manual.

Teflon tape may only be used only on our above ground units. Pipe thread sealant should be used on all in ground installations as these ports are tapped (rough) which makes the tape bunch up causing leaks.

Always install the chemical system last in the order of equipment, so it is the closest to the pool return and leave as much space between it and the heater to avoid corrosion. A check valve is also highly recommended between the system and the heater.

The check valve should be considered if a heater is installed to protect it from chlorine backwash when the pump turns off.

Ideal back pressure is 4-8 psi. Simply adjust the eyeball fitting in the return jet to a smaller or larger size to increase or decrease back pressure.

When water flow is higher than 80 gpm, an in-floor cleaner is installed, the pool and spa share common equipment, or solar heating is present. These features create a spike in the pressure when they come on that can crack the chemical system cap or cause over chlorination. Bypassing these features will help alleviate this problem.

Weekly shocking is typically recommended for pools or spas with more frequent shocking when the pool or spa is used often such as the heat of the pool season or abnormally heavy spa use.

Use a chlorine shock at start-up. Using a non-chlorine shock with FROG minerals will keep the chlorine level down in the pool or spa. However chlorine shock is OK to use as well. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for use.

Each product has a specific setting based on pool size, pump size, and pump run time. The proper dial setting is important for maintaining the correct chlorine level. See your manual or click here for directions.

Turn the pump off and turn the control dial all the way to the left. Remove cap and unscrew knob in back of in ground units or front of above ground units. Allow all water to drain. Remove chlorine from system. If bulk, place in skimmer. If pac still contains chlorine, wrap in plastic bag and store in cool, dry location away from open flame or anything metal. Replace cap and knobs loosely.

For pools, ANSI standards call for at least 1 turn over per day. Determine your water volume and the flow rate of your pump in gallons per minute. Then calculate the minimum pump run time for your pool. Installing a timer is recommended.

For spas, follow the manufacturers directions for operation as this can vary from spa to spa.

Call our Customer Service Department at 800-222-0169 or your local dealer.

Hold the cap in front of you upside down with the o-ring groove facing up. Place one end of the o-ring into the cap groove at the point closest to you. Hold o-ring down with the thumb and forefinger of one hand. Take hold of the far end of the o-ring with the thumb and index finger of the other hand. Roll o-ring slightly back towards you as you stretch the o-ring into the remainder of the cap groove. (See manual for diagrams)

Lubricate o-ring regularly with silicone lubricant provided. DO NOT USE petroleum-based lubricants!

The in ground and above ground control dials are replaced slightly differently. Diagrams and instructions are in the product manuals. (See above ground manual) (See in ground manual)

No – not only is it dangerous it will result in using more chlorine than is necessary AND will void the warranty as the product is not being used according to directions.