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Hot Tub FAQs

Basics

FROG uses silver and limestone to support water care. Silver helps control bacteria, while limestone helps absorb acidic byproducts from chemicals like chlorine, promoting a more balanced and neutral pH. Minerals work with SmartChlor® to dramatically reduce the use of chlorine, creating luxuriously soft and clear Fresh Mineral Water®∞. 

Total Chlorine is the total amount of chlorine in the water. When chlorine binds up with contaminants, it forms a compound called “chloramines” that is still part of the total but no longer effective as a sanitizer. The chlorine that’s still active and available to fight bacteria is known as Free Chlorine. 

With traditional chlorine, when the gap between Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine grows too large, that signals a chloramine buildup and it’s time to shock the water. 

FROG @ease® with SmartChlor® works differently. SmartChlor forms a chlorine reserve, or “bank,” that shows up in a Total Chlorine test but stays inactive until needed. As Free Chlorine gets used up disinfecting the water, the system automatically shifts chlorine from that reserve into active, Free Chlorine form — replenishing on demand instead of dosing all at once. Because of this, seeing Total Chlorine read noticeably higher than Free Chlorine is completely normal with @ease and SmartChlor, and does not mean you need to shock. 

Simply keep Free Chlorine in the ideal 0.5 – 1.0 ppm range. If Total Chlorine starts dropping, that’s a better sign the cartridge is running low and needs to be replaced.  

Bromine is an effective hot tub sanitizer because it dissolves more slowly in hot water, is less odorous and less corrosive than chlorine and regenerates itself every time you shock the hot tub.

pH and alkalinity are related, but they measure different aspects of water balance. 

  • pH measures how acidic or basic the water is by indicating the concentration of hydrogen ions. A low pH means the water is more acidic, while a high pH means it is more basic (alkaline). 
  • Total alkalinity measures the water’s ability to resist changes in pH. Often referred to as the water’s buffering capacity, alkalinity helps keep pH levels stable. 

When total alkalinity is within the proper range, it helps prevent sudden swings in pH. If alkalinity is too low, pH can fluctuate quickly, making water balance more difficult to maintain. 

Calcium Hardness (or Total Hardness) refers to the amount of calcium and other minerals that make the water hard. Hot tubs require a hardness level of 150 to 250 ppm. If it is less than 150, the water will become corrosive. If it’s more than 250 the water will be scale forming.

Ionizers, due to the duplication of minerals, and biguanides like Baquacil, which are not compatible with chlorine or bromine.

Yes! Bromine is compatible with our FROG Serene® Systems and FROG Filter Mate® Mineral Sanitizer. However, bromine should not be used with FROG @ease Systems, as they are chlorine-based and the two sanitizers should not be mixed.

The minerals enter the water as it passes through the mineral medium. A low parts per billion level is dispensed through a controlled release system that prevents overdosing.

Yes. FROG @ease Sanitizing Systems use patented minerals that kill bacteria, reducing the need for chlorine by up to 75%* and creating Fresh Mineral Water®∞. Unlike standard test strips, FROG @ease Test Strips read the low level of chlorine accurately, so you know when to replace your SmartChlor® Cartridge. 

Operation

1. Fill the hot tub and check hardness: After draining and cleaning, fill the hot tub with fresh water and check your Hardness level first. If higher than 250 ppm, ask your dealer for a stain and scale preventer and follow the directions on the product. 

2. Balance the water: Always start by balancing your water. 

3. Shock the water: Add FROG Jump Start® to establish clean, sanitized water. 

4. Set up the FROG® @ease® System: Always begin with a fresh Mineral Cartridge, which lasts up to 4 months. Attach the blue Mineral Cartridge to the silver SmartChlor® Cartridge. Adjust the setting based on your hot tub size using the chart in your owner’s manual. 

5. Place the system in the water: Simply place the FROG @ease Floating Sanitizing System in your hot tub. When the system flips over, it’s time to replace the SmartChlor Cartridge. 

The industry standard is every 3 months. When using FROG Sanitizing Minerals®, you can save water by draining every 4 months when you replace your mineral cartridge.

Water supplies contain different levels of natural minerals like iron, copper or magnesium. These minerals must be removed from the water with a metal out or sequestering agent (see your dealer) to ensure easier balancing and proper sanitation. If using FROG Sanitizing Minerals® products, make sure you remove the natural minerals at start up and wait 24 hours to clean the filter before using the FROG minerals.

ISSUES

A strong chlorine odor usually means you have a build-up of chloramines, which occurs when free chlorine reacts with organic waste from bathers. Thus, the odor is caused by having too little free chlorine, rather than too much. Ridding the hot tub of chloramines requires a shock treatment (either chlorine or non-chlorine).

Weekly shocking is typically recommended for pools or hot tubs with more frequent shocking when the pool or hot tub is used often such as the heat of the pool season or abnormally heavy hot tub use. However, with FROG @ease Sanitizing Systems, you only need to shock once a month. We recommend using FROG Maintain®, which is a non-chlorine shock.

If your pH seems to be constantly rising or falling, several factors may be affecting your water chemistry. pH is influenced by everything that enters the pool or hot tub, making it important to look beyond pH alone and evaluate the overall water balance. 

Common causes of pH fluctuations include: 

  • Source water: Tap water can have a naturally high or low pH depending on your location. 
  • Alkalinity levels: Total alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH. If alkalinity is too low, pH can fluctuate rapidly. If it’s too high, pH tends to drift upward. 
  • Chemical adjustments: Adding too much pH increaser or decreaser can make it difficult to maintain a stable pH. 
  • Sanitizers and shocks: Some sanitizers, such as bromine and trichlor, can gradually lower pH, while certain shocks may cause pH to rise over time. 
  • Swimmer use: Heavy bather loads, along with perspiration, body oils, sunscreen, and other contaminants, can affect water balance and contribute to lower pH. 
  • Weather and debris: Rain, leaves, dirt, pollen, and other organic matter can alter water chemistry and impact pH levels. 
  • Salt chlorine generators: Salt systems naturally cause pH to rise over time and often require more frequent monitoring and adjustment. 

For the most stable pH, keep your total alkalinity within the recommended range, test your water regularly, and make chemical adjustments gradually. When alkalinity is properly balanced, pH becomes much easier to control and maintain. 

Test strips are susceptible to bleaching in high concentrations of chlorine such as after shocking. Wait 24 hours after shocking and test again. Check the test strip expiration date and only use fresh strips.

Cloudy water is usually a sign that your pool or hot tub is struggling to filter contaminants or maintain proper water balance. While the cause is often simple to correct, identifying the source is key to restoring clear, sparkling hot tub water. 

Common causes include: 

  • Low sanitizer levels: When chlorine or other sanitizers are too low, bacteria, algae, and other contaminants can begin to accumulate, causing water to appear dull or cloudy. 
  • High pH or unbalanced water chemistry: A high pH can reduce sanitizer effectiveness and lead to minerals coming out of solution, creating a hazy appearance. 
  • Dirty or inefficient filtration: Filters remove tiny particles from the water. If the filter is dirty, clogged, or undersized, it may not be able to keep the water clear. 
  • Insufficient circulation: Water that isn’t circulated long enough can develop dead spots where contaminants build up and cloudiness develops. 
  • Heavy use or environmental debris: Sunscreen, body oils, pollen, leaves, dust, and other contaminants can overwhelm the sanitizer and filtration system, especially during periods of heavy use. 
  • Recent rain or weather changes: Rain can introduce contaminants and dilute water chemistry, making cloudiness more likely. 

To clear cloudy water, test and balance your water chemistry, ensure sanitizer levels are in the recommended range, clean the filter if needed, and increase circulation time. In most cases, maintaining proper sanitizer levels, filtration, and water balance will restore water clarity within a short period. 

The biggest culprit is detergent residue on swimsuits, but foaming can also be caused by cosmetics, sunscreen, body oils or other organic materials. Some tile and vinyl cleaners may also cause foaming. High pH is another cause. We recommend using a defoamer like FROG Defoamer.

Green or discolored hot tub water is typically caused by metals in the water or improper water chemistry. 

  • Metals such as copper, iron, or manganese can cause the water to appear green, blue, brown, or even black, especially after adding sanitizer or shock. 
  • Low sanitizer levels can allow algae or bacteria to grow, although algae is less common in hot tubs than in pools. 
  • Unbalanced pH or alkalinity can cause metals and other contaminants to come out of solution, resulting in cloudy or discolored water. 

If your water changes color suddenly after refilling, shocking, or adjusting chemicals, metals are often the cause. Regular water testing and maintaining proper sanitizer levels and water balance can help keep hot tub water clear and inviting. 

Call our Customer Service Department at 800-222-0169 or your local dealer.

* Compared to the minimum ANSI recommended chlorine level of 2.0 ppm for a hot tub 

∞ Cleaner, Clearer and Softer water for pools, hot tubs and swim spas 

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